Lake Como Food Coma Part 2: Baita Belvedere

We went to Trattoria Baita Belvedere Bellagio for our final dinner. We had heard about it from our hotel and a random couple who gave us hiking directions — we actually stumbled upon it at the top of our hike the previous day. It sat high atop the mountain with an awe-inspiring view of the northern part of the lake. We made a reservation, excited to watch the sun set and the lake turn to golden amber as we relished our last meal in Italy.

View the day before

View at dinner

Except we forgot to heck the weather and the whole day was foggy! No real rain, but ominous fog clung to the mountains. It was actually very beautiful and serene. But not great for a view! Yet it was almost more special because we had the clear view when we hiked and now we got a view more akin to being in a rain forest! Nothing in nature is ever not beautiful — sometime it’s just a beauty you don’t expect.

The restaurant told us the shuttle would come at 7:00, which we thought was a tad early for dinner given it was only a 10 minute ride. And sure enough, not only was he place empty (but all reserved), we had to practically yell “Buona Sera!” for anyone to hear us — but we could hear them laughing and singing, which I took as a very good sign. Happy chefs + happy waiters = happy diners, right?

The restaurant serves all local food, as much if it’s possible from its farm. It was all very homey and comforting. Nothing very fancy, just honest and tasty. The food that most stuck out on the menu was polenta (basically grits). Northern Italy eats more rice and polenta than the rest of the country, which was apparent from the menu — I’ve never seen so many permutations: polenta unta (greased polenta with light cheese, melted butter, sage, garlic); polenta and milk, polenta and cream, polenta and “zola” (with Gorgonzola cheese)! It was like that scene in Forest Gump when Bubba describes all the ways his family cooks shrimp: “You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it…”

Scroll over the photos below to read a brief description about the food. We ended the meal with some grappa (of course)…and then they gave us some more on the house. Alle Darsene did th same thing — I think they dig it when a non-Italian orders off-menu grappa. And we were happy to please!

We toned down the quantity of food (a bit) but either we eat slowly or still ate too much because we were literally the last ones left. We looked around and then finally tentatively asked about a return shuttle (I had just assumed there would be one!). They told us tho wait, and then our waiter appeared, shrugging on a vest and telling us he’ll take us home. I immediately wished we had tipped extra.He sped through the dark mountain roads, telling us about his kids. The fog was lifting, and I sat back and stares into the deep woods and down onto the onyx lake, savoring a perfect final night in Italy.